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Years ago, at one of the abounding auctions that steakhouse developer Jeff Bittersweet patrols for flourishes and embellishments, he came beyond a brace of stained-glass panels featuring buckeyes.

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“It’s 100 years old,” Bittersweet said of the bottle artwork. “I bought it in case I anytime did a abode in Columbus.”

Now, those stained-glass buckeyes accept a home — at Jeff Ruby’s Steakhouse Downtown.

And some home it is.

Ruby spent about $5 actor to adjust 89 E. Nationwide Blvd., which was already home to several added restaurants — 89 Fish and Grill and a Damon’s amid them.

The assignment included anchor the aloft patio space, abacus a basement dining allowance alleged the Cellar, and decorating the amplitude with a decrepit bottle arch aloft the capital bar, bristling clover walls, age-old chandeliers, Venetian sconces and custom woodwork everywhere.

Those decrepit bottle panels Bittersweet captivated assimilate for years mark the access to a clandestine Ohio State University-themed dining allowance — the Buckeye Allowance — with gray arresting bank paper, pleated red clover draped from the beam and a massive chandelier with hundreds of crystals abiding about a argent sousaphone that Bittersweet said was already acclimated by the Ohio State University boot band.

Ruby’s restaurants — he has several in Cincinnati and one anniversary in Nashville and Louisville — are a assignment in absorption to detail.

During a contempo interview, Bittersweet talked about the ablaze accessories aloft the sushi bar — hand-blown bottle shaped like octopi — that were aureate in from Hawaii. How the advanced doors, aphotic copse with inset glass, were antiques he bought in Chicago. How a behemothic mirror in a gilded anatomy came from an bargain abode in Alabama.

He said the restaurant bare to enclose one patio to accomplish it big abundant to bench 300, but he added a new patio out advanced for cigar smokers because “a steakhouse afterwards cigars is like Bob Evans afterwards biscuits.”

Ruby sweats the baby stuff, because back a steak on the card costs as abundant as $115, the baby being is important.

“When they leave our restaurant, they leave with added than a doggie bag,” he said. “They leave with a memory. We gotta accomplish it the best memory.”

It was in Cincinnati that Ruby, 69, artificial his acceptability as one of the arch steakhouse operators in the country. He opened the Precinct in 1981 with ally Pete Rose and Johnny Bench. It charcoal one of the best-rated restaurants in Cincinnati.

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His restaurants accept a adroitness for alluring bedrock stars, athletes and added luminaries. A bank at the Columbus steakhouse appearance dozens of photos of Bittersweet assuming with the brand of Wayne Gretzky, Gene Simmons, George Clooney, alike megachurch pastor Joel Osteen.

Like that wall, annihilation about Ruby’s Steakhouse is understated.

At 11,000 aboveboard anxiety and spanning two levels, it’s gigantic.

There are two kitchens, a capital bar and a sushi bar.

Menu items ambit from Jeff Ruby’s burger ($22) and arbor of elk ($65), to a 30-ounce, 55-day dry age-old tomahawk steak ($115). Accompaniments are archetypal and include creamed spinach, mashed potatoes, fries, mushrooms and blooming beans.

There is additionally seafood, such as oysters, baron crab, clams and lobster. There’s craven and alike macaroni and cheese.

For Columbus, the card offers a appropriate Buckeye Block ($16) a massive allotment of layers of red clover cake, amber ganache and peanut adulate icing topped with peanut adulate mousse and, of course, a buckeye.

Ruby’s Steakhouse is about as high-end as it gets, and bodies apperceive it.

“It’s a abundant restaurant,” said Bob Welcher, admiral of Restaurant Consultants Inc. “I go to Cincinnati aloof to eat there.”

Ruby’s Cincinnati steakhouse has added than 2,000 5-star ratings on OpenTable.com, which additionally alleged The Precinct, addition Bittersweet acreage alleged Carlo & Johnny’s, and the Cincinnati and Louisville steakhouse locations in the top 100 steakhouses in the U.S.

That doesn’t beggarly success in Columbus is assured.

The area on Nationwide Boulevard hasn’t been a hit in the past, alike admitting it is abutting to the assemblage centermost and added hot spots.

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But Downtown and the Arena District are on the rise, and a name like Ruby’s will draw bodies in, said John Gordon, arch of Pacific Management Consulting Group and an absolute restaurant analyst.

“This is a assurance that the Downtown has cogent momentum,” Gordon said, abacus that operators like Bittersweet wouldn’t bother ambience up boutique there if that wasn’t the case.

“The declining above-mentioned restaurants are not fatal. If they breed the appropriate relationships, the armpit will apparently assignment out.”

Ruby looked at several locations in the burghal over the years, but annihilation formed out until he begin advocate Philip Fulton, who owns the architecture and became a accomplice in the steakhouse.

Columbus has a cardinal of high-end dining choices, including several beneath the Cameron Mitchell Restaurants awning as able-bodied as Hyde Park, Tucci’s and The Top. Bittersweet thinks there is affluence of allowance for another.

“It is his town,” Bittersweet said of Mitchell. “I can still run a abode in his town. This is a abundant aliment town. There are a lot of abundant restaurants. It’s a abundant bazaar and we aren’t activity to aching anyone.”

Ruby alike assassin chefs from a few bounded places, including his favorite, Lindey’s.

“Lindey’s, that abode is absorbing as hell,” Bittersweet said. “It is like putting on your admired action coat. You can buy a lot of others, but annihilation fits like that one.”

Additional antagonism in the high-end bazaar will be acceptable for everyone, Welcher said. An alien advancing into Columbus with some ‘wow’ agency could atom a little added activity into the dining scene.

Ruth’s Chris, a civic alternation of top steakhouses, bankrupt its abundance at Crosswoods on the Far North Side about two years ago, an avenue that Gordon sees as a gap for Bittersweet to fill.

In that chic of restaurant, though, Ruby’s can’t blunder out of the gate.

“The anguish actuality would be that it doesn’t translate, that it loses something,” Welcher said. “Someone who ate at the one in Cincinnati should accept the aforementioned acquaintance here. Otherwise, they will be disappointed.”

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“The acidity and cuts (of meat) aloof accept to be extraordinary,” Gordon said. “Clearly, back you are advantageous that abundant for dinner, you appetite to accept a actual nice experience.”

Ruby knows the ball amount of his steakhouse is maybe as important as the food. It reflects his personality, both arbitrary and sophisticated.

He aims to please.

Just ask him about his rings.

He wears a lot of rings, but two angle out.

One is huge, diamond-encrusted, and adorned with a University of Kentucky logo in the center. It fits on his basis finger. The additional is a abate gold arena with a ample ruby, which he wears on his arena finger. The aboriginal was from UK basketball drillmaster John Calipari, afterwards acceptable an NCAA national championship. The added is from Rick Pitino, afterwards arch his aggregation to a civic basketball appellation as drillmaster at the University of Louisville.

“If they like your restaurant,” Bittersweet said with a smile, “they accord you their civic championship ring.”

When asked if he expects his Columbus steakhouse to acquire the aforementioned acknowledgment from axial Ohio’s top coach, Urban Meyer, Bittersweet didn’t blink.

“Absolutely.”

 jmalone@dispatch.com

@j_d_malone

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