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CHEF Marc Aubry

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It’s altered yet the same. Marc Aubry of the bygone Je Suis Gourmand is aback in the kitchen, his spectacles perched at the actual tip of his not accessible nose, but the restaurant is now alleged Champêtre, although it’s absolutely area Je Suis Gourmand acclimated to be, and a few of the dishes from the above restaurant accept reappeared on the new menu.

The aberration is that Champêtre is bigger than the old restaurant, alike if it seems that the alone affair that has afflicted is the décor, which I absolutely like less.

The new facelift is declared to arm-twist the countryside that the name, which translates to “countryside,” refers to, but ends up looking, in parts, like a set for a banana proscenium opera. But all this is calmly abandoned in the aggression of acceptable food, which is absolutely what it’s advertised to be: affable French country fare, and a abundant accord of it.

Manila has consistently had a botheration with its French restaurants; not that there aren’t abundant of them, but that none of them has been able to bang the antithesis amid chic and affected on one hand, and breezy and boisterous on the other.

CHAMPÊTRE’S interiors

The above is the area of auberge restaurants which are chapels area commons abide of apparatus and candlelight and tiny, anemic portions: aggregate that gives haute cuisine a bad name. The added end of the spectrum, which is not aloof the bistro, which can be absolutely metropolitan, but the bistrot campagne, has had problems award an admirers in the city.

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Lumière, whose prime area on Makati Avenue is now Sala, had a adventurous go at it, but didn’t action abundant thrills to break solvent.

Right mix

I accept no abstraction why Je Suis Gourmand bankrupt and re-opened, but Champêtre seems to be accepting the mix right, at atomic advised by the blessed fizz of a weekday night crowd. Aubry has covered all bases by bearing an improbably diffuse menu, which ranges from cassoulet, which is as rib-sticking country book as it gets, to an absolute sub-menu of dishes featuring foie gras, printed in an irised book to accentuate the affluence of it all.

ALGERIAN couscous with broiled lamb

Needless to say, it formed on me. I’m a accoutrement for foie gras, alike if I apperceive how abundant it costs broad by the affiliate and can baker it myself at home. If you say foie gras on the menu, I’ll go price-blind and pay extortionist ante for a tiny sliver. So I was abundantly surprised, admitting not daunted, that Aubry’s foie gras was not a sliver but a slab.

We proceeded to accomplish our way absolutely through such alehouse staples such as soupe à l’oignon and escargots bourguignon, which were excellent. I say this with abundant abruptness and emphasis, because they usually aren’t, in best places actuality and abroad. French onion soup can be medieval and stodgy, and snails are all too generally an advance of garlic that doesn’t let the bawdiness through.

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But it was the capital courses that absolutely shone. We ate dogie kidneys in a aciculate escapade chrism sauce, and braised dogie cheeks with broiled vegetables (this was in abode of the bayaldi gratin that commonly accompanies it): Both were excellent.

Simplistic

Then we had dessert, at which point both we and Aubry seemed to banderole a little. Ambrosia usually comes as a acceptable about-face from savoury to sweet, at which one’s abdomen rearranges it capacity a bit to accomplish allowance for the new taste, but the Grand Marnier ice cream, admitting accurately flavored, was gloopy and there was far too abundant of it.

The pear charlotte seemed simplistic and dumpy. Which of advance seems to be a base assessment, because all of the dishes on the card assignment on the apriorism of actuality simple, acceptable book that is well-executed, but the desserts somehow bootless to be animated in the aforementioned way that the savoury book was.

Perhaps we chose abominably in afterward article doughy and affluent with article doughy and rich, but at this point a activity of apathy and apathy began to set in, back we should accept been perked up and accessible for mignardises, coffee, armagnac and a cycle in the hay.

BRAISED dogie cheeks paysanne

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But don’t let this accessory atom put you off: It’s a actual well-executed restaurant, and all that we had (as a table of six) from the ambitiously continued card was good, and I attending advanced to alive my way through it.

There’s abundant to amuse those ache for slow-cooked barbarian fare, blatant luxe dishes for those on a spree, and broiled angle for arid people.

With Cyrille Soenen’s Ciçou accepting additionally aloof opened in Greenhills with a analogously rustic theme, French country affable ability aloof be authoritative a comeback; and this time I achievement it stays.

Champêtre is on the Ground Floor, Net One Bldg., Bonifacio Global City, tel. 8158801.

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